| Ring-necked Parakeets
combine grace and strength with beauty. These magnificent
birds are also a mutation breeders dream. With around
100 primary and secondary mutations to work with, opening
the nest box is always an adventure.
Psittacula krameri manillensis
or its more common name, the Indian Ring-necked Parakeet
is the most commonly kept of the four recognized sub-species
of Ring-necked Parakeets, also called Rose-ringed
Parakeets. They have a wide range in the wild and
are found in Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Nepal and
into Burma. They are also found in Sri Lanka and across
a wide area of central and northeastern Africa as
well as southeastern China.
The Indian Ring-necked
Parakeet is a long, broad chested, elegant bird that
is generally 18”-20” from the top of its head to the
tip of its incredible tail. Although they are found
in a huge variety of colors in captivity, this birds
wild color is predominantly green with a yellowish
hue through the underparts. The nape shows a blue
suffusion that can at times extend to the crown. The
central tail feathers are blue, with yellowish green
tips. The upper bill is dark red with a black tip,
while the lower bill is mainly black. At maturity
cocks (not hens) acquire a ring, which consists of
a thin black band that runs from the cere to the eyes
and a broader black band that extends from the lower
mandible, becoming thinner on the sides of the neck
where it mixes with the rose-pink collar that encircles
the hindneck.
In captivity this strong
flying bird needs as much excercise room as possible
to breed successfully. I keep my breeding prs in 4’
x 4’ x 8’ flight cages during the breeding season
and move them into 10’x 10’ x 12’ flights the rest
of the year. Feeding these birds is easy as they are
generally quite accepting of most new foods. I give
mine a good balanced seed mixture (small hookbill
and Cockatiel), clean, fresh drinking water and a
wide variety of supplemental foods. Supplemental foods
are offered at least 4 times a week and include: apples,
pears, persimmons, pomegranates, figs, grapes, bananas,
carrots, corn, squash, kale, chard and a bean/ brown
rice mixture that I serve on whole wheat bread.
Maturity and breeding
can occur with hens as young as 1 year old and cocks
as young as 2 years of age. I have never had a 1 year
old cock breed successfully. Breeding in southern
California generally takes place between the middle
of January and the beginning of June. A variety of
nest-boxes will be accepted and used by Ringnecks,
but I use a 10” x 10” x 30” box with about 4” of pine
shavings.
After a long and dramatic
courtship involving weeks of the male feeding the
hen, dancing, bowing, eye-flashing and hopefully copulation,
between 4-6 eggs will be deposited in the box (1 every
other day). The hen will typically incubate
the eggs alone while being fed at the entrance to
the box by the male. Incubation lasts approximately
23 days and the chicks fledge from the box around
the sixth week. Both parents will continue to feed
the young birds for another 2-3 weeks.
If you allow the
pair to wean their own chicks you will generally get
one clutch per season. If you want to increase production,
you must either foster the eggs or young chicks or
pull the chicks for hand rearing. To give yourself
the best chance at a second clutch, pull the babies
as young as you are comfortable feeding them, but
not older than 2 weeks. Do not worry about Ringnecks
becoming imprinted through the hand-feeding process.
As long as you are raising two or more babies
together, you will find that there is a competitive
nature in young Ringnecks that drives them to independence,
of each other and of you, at an early age. As soon
as the young Ringnecks are weaned, I put them outside
in 3’x 3’x 6’ cages to develop strength.
Here is a list of the
Primary and Secondary mutations that I am hoping to
produce this year. Some are linked to photographs
of my breeders or their offspring. I hope to continue
adding pictures until all of the mutations are
represented. If you have questions about genetics
please visit the genetics page. If you have further
questions about Ringneck care and breeding or about
price and availability please call or email me anytime.
*linked
to a photo.
Green
*Blue
*Turquoise
Lutino
*Albino
Cream-ino
*Grey-green
*Grey
*Turquoisegrey
*Cinnamon
*Cinnamon
Blue
*Cinnamon
Turquoise
Cinnamon Grey (Silver)
Cinnamon Turquoisegrey
Fallow
*Fallow
Grey-green
*Fallow
Blue
Fallow Turquoise
Fallow Turquoisegrey
Lacewing
*Blue
Lacewing
*Grey-green
Lacewing
Grey Lacewing
*Turquoise
Lacewing
*Turquoisegrey
Lacewing
*Yellowheaded
(red-eyed)
Yellowheaded Grey-green
(red-eyed)
Whiteheaded Blue (red-eyed)
Whiteheaded Grey (red-eyed)
Creamheaded Turquoise
(red-eyed)
Creamheaded Turquoisegrey
(red-eyed)
Yellowheaded-Yellowtailed
Yellowheaded-Yellowtailed
Grey-green
Whiteheaded-Whitetailed
Blue
Whiteheaded-Whitetailed
Grey
Creamheaded-Whitetailed
Turquoise
Creamheaded-Whitetailed
Turquoisegrey
*Dark
Green
*Cobalt
|